Silk knitted products not only with moisture, breathable, lightweight, health and other characteristics, and better than woven silk elastic, anti-wrinkle resistance and washability.
Currently, the market is more popular composite air layer thermal underwear fabrics of cotton and chemical fiber mainly based raw materials, relatively small silk material, for which the development of a series of complex air layer containing silk fabric, mainly from the core material processing, weaving process, dyeing process improvement and innovation aspects of the product by the consumers.
1. Pilling resistant core material processing
Core common air layer fabric used without anti-pilling treatment during wearing due to friction, static electricity and other reasons, the core material is easy to drill out, forming a strip of silk thread, seriously affecting the taking effect. In response to this situation, on the basis of past elastic network processing technology, to carry out anti-pilling core processing, but does not affect the core material shrinkage and fluffy on the basis of the core material processed by the network than ordinary yarn better bulkiness.
Filament interlacing is Shuli air out of the “pigtail” section, where smooth no section does not affect the weaving, while the unpaid portion of the elastic fiber network through the air opening, resulting in a better fluffy, with more good warm effect. Processed by interlacing stretch silk with good cohesion of the post office network, under the ordinary force, several stretch is not easy to loose. Plus appropriate organizational weaving, overcome the common core wire is easy to drill stretch velvet, silk thread from defects.
2. weaving process
Because silk texture rather hard, toughness and bending resistance, is more prone to defects than the average of yarn during weaving, such as triangular eyes, cloth and other irregularities. Difficulties silk weaving knitting process that controls the process of tension, too easy to fall off, it will cause too much wear and tear on the loom parts, oil is also easy to fluff. By constantly adjusting the machine, comparing the best weaving process chosen, the following air layer of silk straight example.
a) Device Parameters
Models: paddle UP372 double jacquard knitting machine
Machine No.: 28-pin /25.4 mm
Tube diameter: 762.0 mm (30 “)
Large ones: 72 F
b) Material selection
Fabric surface and the inner layer are selected for 4.4 / 4.9 tex silk × 2 (40/44 D × 2), the core selection 22.2 tex (200 D) polyester.
c) threading mode
24 F for a loop, the first 1,4,7 … 22 F syringe full into the ring, penetration 4.4 / 4.9 tex × 2 silk; Section 2,5,8 … 23 F dial needle into the whole circle, corresponding drafted pattern at syringe needle on × tuck, penetration 4.4 / 4.9 tex × 2 silk; section 3,6,9 … 24 F corresponds to the drafted pattern × tuck at syringe needle, penetration 22.2 tex polyester.
d) drafted pattern
Its artistic conception shown in Figure 2.
Figure 2 drafted pattern
Flower width of 12 vertical lines, flowers high as eight courses. Road cycling is 24 large ones, because the use of 28-pin /25.4 mm machine-woven, more delicate fabrics, fabric patterns in order to make the effect more prominent, using the same needle for two consecutive pin tuck. Polyester alone all the way into and tuck at a circle, thus reducing the polyester in the middle of moving to avoid pilling, pilling. The fabric results in Figure 3.
Figure 3 fabrics positive effect diagram
e) yarn tension adjustment
Because silk has good toughness, silk weaving to control the tension. Tension too much machine and knitting needles will cause excessive wear and tear, too will fall off when the output of silk yarn, silk general tension control at 3.92 ~ 5.88 cN appropriate. Polyester yarn tension as small as possible, the general control 1.96 ~ 2.94 cN appropriate.
f) cloth adjustment
When weaving, if the tension is too small cloth, cloth easily float, not normally a circle, cloth should be appropriately increased tension, but not too much, too much tension on canvas prone holes to be transferred fabric formation no hole prevail.
h) is adjusted with the cam cylinder and dial cam
Because silk has good toughness, weaving the fabric surface is easy to fluff, so to adjust the syringe and needle plate triangle triangle with them to dial needle and syringe needle into the ring at the same time, this silk into yarn tension is relatively stable, not prone hole.
3. Dyeing and Finishing
After air layer composite fabric weaving, but also after scouring, dyeing, setting and other finishing. When one side of the fabric dyeing inside outwards, to avoid sanding the front, in order to maintain a positive and smooth. With acid dyes, control time and temperature scouring, color fastness to achieve three or more.
